Crayfish and Crab Cocktail with Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Riesling

I have to admit there's an element of nepotism about this pairing which I enjoyed the other day at my son’s award-winning steakhouse Hawksmoor where we were shooting new photography for the site (an exciting development about which more news shortly!)

The photographer Debbie Rowe being a good friend, we thought we’d have a bite to eat beforehand. While Debbie sensibly ordered a salad (which explains why she’s a fraction of my size) I kicked off with a lavish, crayfish and crab cocktail, which would actually make a good get-ahead starter for a Thanksgiving feast if you're racking your brains for something different to serve.

Seafood cocktail sauce or ‘marie rose’ sauce with its slight sweetness isn’t the easiest match with wine but happily I found a Bonny Doon Pacific Rim Riesling available by the glass which matched it perfectly, complementing the shellfish with its crisp refreshing acidity but refusing to have its own touch of sweetness stripped by the sauce.

And yes, we did follow with a steak which we accompanied with a voluptuously ripe 2007 Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel, another spot-on pairing.

PS If you ever need a portrait done I can strongly recommend Debbie. I absolutely loathe having my picture taken and she’s one of the very few photographers who has managed to make me feel relaxed about the process and thrilled with the result. She also shot the splendid picture of Michael Broadbent on his bicycle that appears above his column in Decanter. You can contact her through her website www.debbierowe.com